Brow Lamination Is the Microblading Alternative Taking Over Your Feeds

They say that the eyebrows frame the face, and luckily for us, we no longer have to rely on our blunt tweezers and terrible eyesight to turn our hairs into face-framing works of art. There are now many innovative treatments offering to trim, tidy, and transform our eyebrows. One newer — and increasingly popular — treatment is called brow lamination.

You may have noticed pictures of full, slicked-up brows with a high-shine finish taking over your Instagram and TikTok "For You" page. Well, that's brow lamination. Think of it as semi-permanent soap brows. Now, when we say laminating, we're not talking about turning sheets of paper into shiny posters kindergarten-style. However, it does have a similar smoothing effect by using chemicals to semi-permanently set the eyebrow hairs in a vertical direction, making them appear brushed up.

Because of this process, people also refer to the treatment as a brow perm. Although in this instance, rather than adding a curl or a wave, it's all about straightening the hairs. Basically, if your hair strands are forever growing in an unruly direction, you've got gaps, or were victim to the overplucking era then that's exactly where brow lamination comes in to help solve that.

Sounds pretty epic, right? Well, it is. But (yes there's a but, sorry!) like a lot of beauty treatments out there, there are also some drawbacks. Let’s dive into the benefits, risks, aftercare and cost.

• Sarah Maxwell, a lash expert and founder of Sarah Maxwell Beauty based in Los Angeles.
• Kallinika Aynsley, a brow artist and educator based in London.
• Shari Marchbein, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City.

What is brow lamination?

Brow lamination is essentially a "brow hair texturizing treatment," says Los Angeles-based brow and lash expert Sarah Maxwell. It refers to a process in which a brow specialist "softens the hair follicle" using a chemical solution "and then re-shapes, or sets, it into a more refined, lifted, smoother shape," she adds. The result? Perfect brushed up brows that give a fuller, more uniform and defined look.

What are the benefits of brow lamination?

The main benefit of laminated brows is, of course, the look of them. "When done correctly the brow will lay in a more aesthetically pleasing shape, with the brows looking fuller and more lifted," says Maxwell. In addition to smoothing the hairs out, you can also re-shape the brows a little during lamination; for example raising the arch or lowering the tail to get your desired shape.

Unlike other brow treatments including microblading, this treatment is non-invasive and isn't permanent, making it a great option for a lot of people who don’t want to make the commitment to other brow services.

Not only do they look great after lamination, but they're also easier to manage. "The hairs, if unruly before, will be more easily managed in their smooth shape," explains Maxwell. The hair lay in a vertical direction appearing as though they’ve been expertly brushed up and set in place.

One of the main selling points of lamination is that it lasts up to eight weeks, meaning no frantic brow brushing and gel setting every morning; allowing for a lower maintenance daily routine.

How do I prepare for a brow lamination?

Before diving into what you should expect from your appointment, it's important that you go into it prepared. Avoid retinol, alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), and other exfoliant skin-care products at least 48 hours before your appointment as this can cause a reaction with the chemical lamination solution, resulting in an unwanted skin reaction. Brow techs also recommend to avoid tweezing, threading, or waxing your brows prior to your appointment.

If you are known to have ultra-sensitive skin, or have previously reacted to hair dye, it's a good idea to get a patch test prior to your appointment. Unlike a lot of beauty services, lamination doesn’t always require a patch test so an allergy won’t be known until the solution has been applied to your eyebrows.

Let your brow tech know if you have any skin conditions (including psoriasis and eczema), if you’ve been sensitive to certain chemicals in the past, if you have any eye conditions, or currently have sunburn. Your tech will let you know if you're able to still have the treatment all things considered, which is entirely in your best interest and safety.

What is the brow lamination process like?

So, you're in the all-clear and ready to get your brows laminated. What should you expect?

First things first, you'll be shown to a reclined seat where you'll get comfortable and your brow tech will begin cleansing the area to make sure it's free from any makeup, oils or bacteria. Next, they will apply a relax cream, which causes a reaction to the disulphide bonds in your brows, which holds together the protein (keratin) chains in our hairs. This softens the hairs making them pliable to form your desired shape. Your tech may apply some plastic wrap over the hairs to speed up this process.

This is left to process for five minutes or so (this depends on the thickness of your hairs) and then is removed and a setting cream is applied. This cream is called a "neutralizer," "reform" or "setting" cream and essentially "sets the hair into its new shape reforming the hair and its keratin chains," Maxwell explains. This cream is left for a further few minutes and your tech will use a spoolie to brush the hair into position.

After the brows are set in place, some techs like to tweeze away any stray hairs. Maxwell doesn't recommend waxing following the lamination process because "the hair follicle and pores around the brow have been opened up by the ingredients in the lamination process and can rip or break the delicate eye area skin."

Maxwell also doesn't recommend cutting the hairs unless there are extremely long and noticeably out of place hairs. "Cutting the hair ends up looking like an electrocution versus that fluffy look that makes a good brow lamination," she adds.

Once all of that is complete, "a hydrating essence and keratin conditioner treatment should be used and sent home with the client," says Maxwell.

Due to the powerful chemicals used during the process, there can be some downsides to the treatment. "[Brow lamination] can have a detrimental effect on the overall condition of the hairs over a period of time, especially if it is a treatment that is built into a continued beauty regime," brow artist and educator Kallinika Aynsley tells Allure. It's very possible to over-process the hairs during lamination, especially if it’s something you get done regularly and/or if your tech isn’t highly skilled.

"My biggest piece of advice to anyone interested in the treatment is to be aware of over-processed brows, this is where the hair could potentially become 'frazzled' and the hair can become crispy and shed," says Aynsley. "I would only suggest brow lamination for a short-term beauty fix," she adds.

The result of damaged brows can cause exactly what lamination aims to fix: dry, unruly, frazzled-looking brows.

For this reason, it's recommended to only get brow lamination once in a while versus regularly. And both brow experts we spoke to emphasized the importance of going to someone well-trained. "Always make sure to do your research when booking any treatment which involves a strong chemical and ensure the artist will take into consideration the condition and growth plan of your brows for the future," says Aynsley. "If all these factors have been considered and you're confident that brow lamination is the best treatment for your brows then I'm sure the results will be perfect."

When it comes to eye and skin health, Shari Marchbein, MD, a New York City board-certified dermatologist, also has some words of warning about the treatment. First and foremost, she's concerned about the eyelid skin itself, as it's the thinnest, most delicate of the body. "Therefore it requires special care and attention from the skin-care products that we use," she says. "It is especially prone to irritation, so harsh chemicals from this brow lamination could cause eczema, which is characterized by red, dry, itchy, and inflamed skin."

Another concern she brings up is the possibility of getting these caustic chemicals in contact with the eye itself, which could cause "potentially irreversible damage," she adds. Both of these worries are why brow tinting is frowned upon by experts and the Food and Drug Administration (FDA). Of course, people in the U.S. still continue to keep getting their arches tinted, so if you choose to proceed with the treatment, please do so with caution.

Can I do a brow lamination at home?

Many beauty treatments are done by professionals for a reason, including brow lamination. At-home kits aren't as strong as professional kits, however, the formulations still have the potential to damage brow hairs long-term, especially if done incorrectly. Not to mention that it’s never a good idea to be using chemicals you haven’t been trained in that close to your eyes. You’ve only got one face, friends, so please be careful.

How much does brow lamination cost?

The cost of brow lamination varies dramatically depending on the brow artist's location, skill level and the service. Oftentimes brow lamination is an additional service so you'll be paying for more than just the perm. Generally cities are more expensive than local towns, ranging from $75 up to $250.

What does brow lamination aftercare look like?

Aftercare is important to follow with brow lamination as it can undo the hard work your brow tech has done, meaning a total waste of money and time on your part. "I always suggest not getting the brow area wet for 24 hours, so washing around the area is best," Maxwell advises. This also includes not using a steam room or getting excessively sweaty at a workout class.

Once this 24 hour window has passed, Aynsley recommends, "oil, oil, oil" to hydrate the hairs. Aynsely loves Augustinus Bader Face Oil if you're feeling fancy, or castor oil, which she suggests "coating it over your brows every night before bed and building it into your daily skincare regime."

Maxwell recommends The Brow Mask from her brand, to use "at least once a week to revitalize the brow hair making them look like they have been freshly laminated all over again."

Brow lamination is a great treatment and non-invasive alternative to microblading for that natural, defined look with minimal maintenance. But, due to the chemicals involved in the process, it can be pretty rough on your brows with continued use and improper aftercare — with the potential to over-process them resulting in dry, frazzled (and sad) hairs. Because of this, experts recommend to always visit well-respected brow tech, and if you're finding your hairs getting dry, then stick to occasional treatments only.

Read more about amazing brow products:

• 21 Amazing Brow Products Our Editors Can't Live Without
• Glossier’s New Brow Flick Pen Creates the Look of Fuller Eyebrows
• Benefit Cosmetics' Ka-Brow Is the Perfect Pocket-Size Brow Gel

Now check out 17 different brow-filling methods:

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