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The makeup-skin care hybrid product is sort of like a "friends with benefits," situation: a niacinamide- or squalane-infused foundation, for example, provides skin-nourishing perks. This buildable coverage is great for what the olds call "no makeup makeup" — TikTok girlies, you know this as the "clean aesthetic." Westman Atelier's new Vital Skin Care Complexion Drops fit the bill: brand founder and makeup artist Gucci Westman says she was inspired create "potent skin care that would act like makeup."
It took four years to formulate the 16 shades (four more will come by the end of the year), which are made with tsubaki (a.k.a. camellia japonica) oil, ginseng extract, and pomegranate oil. According to cosmetic chemist Krupa Koestline, founder of KKT Consultants, benefits linked to these botanicals include inflammatory effects and protection against hyperpigmentation and collagen breakdown.
Before trying this new product, I was nervous. These makeup-slash-skin-care formulations are not always a home run. The problem for me has historically been their oil-rich formulas. I struggle with finicky skin that is prone to shine and seemingly clogs at the mere hint of a new complexion product. Over the years, I have found certain noncomedogenic oils and balms that agree with my skin, but too often there's a hidden offender that results in a bump on my complexion by the afternoon.
That is, until now. Katrina Klein, a Los Angeles-based makeup artist, introduced me to the product in spite of my initial hesitation. "I love these complexion drops for everyday use because they give light-to-medium coverage while still being breathable," she says of the tinted oil blend. "The product doesn't [just] sit on top of your skin, looks really beautiful, and it doesn't feel like you're clogging your pores because it's noncomedogenic, which means it is non pore-clogging."
Unlike typical foundation meant to sit on top of the skin, and skin-care products designed to be absorbed, these fall somewhere in the middle — lightweight hydration with subtle, buildable coverage. We love a Goldilocks moment.
The product is probably not for you if you have an all-around oily skin type or are extremely sensitive to botanical ingredients. But if you're like me and have a combination skin type with an oily T-zone, it can still be done. First, Klein recommends applying a water-based, blurring primer like the Laura Mercier Pure Canvas Primer.
Then go ahead and apply it with your fingers. "This is definitely the kind of product you want to apply with your fingers if possible because you will use much less product," she says. "Start off with two-to-three drops on your fingers and then go in with a little extra if you need to. It's buildable, so start small."
After applying the product, Klein recommends that you follow up with a foundation stick or concealer in the areas that call for more coverage — under the eyes, or over any dark spots, for example. "To set it and take away unwanted shine, press a little powder into those areas." We opted for the new Charlotte Tilbury Beautiful Skin Radiant Concealer and Airbrush Brightening Flawless Finish powder, respectively.
As for how it wears, Klein notes that the drops apply similarly to a sheer, tinted moisturizer, rather than a typical foundation that's formulated for coverage. She shares that the finish is also definitely more on the glow-y side — so again, it is probably not great for a super-oily skin type. "If you like a matte foundation or heavy coverage, this is also not for you," adds Klein. "They are great for summer if you want to feel like you are not wearing a lot on your skin, but also as an everyday foundation for all times of the year."
That being said, just because this serum-foundation possesses good-for-your-skin qualities does not mean it should replace your skin-care regimen. "The [degree] of skin-care benefits depends on the concentration of each active used," Koestline explains. "Typically, lightweight yet hydrating foundations can be beneficial for all skin types as they contain less occlusives… however, while [serum-foundations] can help enhance the skin, they may not entirely replace a skin-care routine."
After gushing to the Allure team about these new drops, I learned that our staff certainly has opinions about this new product. Annie Blay, an associate beauty editor who says she "lives" for no-makeup makeup and counts a skin tint as an essential product in her arsenal, says she "loves" its glow-y finish.
But she does offer a word of caution. "While I love the coverage the complexion drops provide, the oil-like texture and finish were a bit too dewy for my oily skin," Annie says. "I found that throughout the day my skin was veering away from dewy into greasy and I had to dab the excess oiliness away with a tissue every so often, despite having set the tint with powder." So if your skin is on the drier side, Blay thinks this tint will look "chef's kiss" on you. But those with oilier skin types might prefer a more matte formula.
Dianna Mazzone, our associate features director, describes her skin as combination: her forehead is often dry, but her T-zone can get oily. She usually wears a tinted moisturizer, and says the drops offer "a little more coverage" than that option. "The finish and feel isn't at all foundation-y," she explains. "The formula sinks into skin with minimal blending, and the luminosity lasts all day."
All of this is to say: I'm happy I can finally jump on the makeup-skin care hybrid bandwagon, and if your skin type is similar to mine, maybe you'll want to join me, too.
You can shop Westman Atelier's new Vital Skin Care Complexion Drops for $68 at Sephora.com now.
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